This Indian rice dish is simple, comforting and utterly delicious. If you’re looking for something a little more traditional, skip the paneer.

You’ll need 10 ingredients. The dish is gluten free, vegetarian and so easy to veganise. What’s not to love?

Wait, what’s the difference between Gujarati-Style Matar Bhaat and Pulao?

Think of it this way: Pulao is the Hindi word for a rice dish in which you sauté rice in fat with spices, then add vegetables (or any protein of your choice). You then cover it with water and a lid. Finally, cook it until all the ingredients are fragrant and tender.

Gujarati-Style Matar Bhaat adopts this very same process. You could say it’s a type of pulao — just one that has its’ own name, history and repertoire in Gujarati cuisine. It’s a Gujarati treasure. We eat it with Kadhi (buttermilk cooked with spices and gram flour) and not much else.

How to serve Matar-Bhaat

You can enjoy it the Gujarati way — drowned in Kadhi, with a side of Khichiya Papad and raw onions. Or serve it as part of a large, thali-style meal. It’s a wonderful alternative to Jeera Rice when peas are in season.

Do I have to add peas?

Yes. It’s not Matar Bhaat without the matar (peas). You can opt for raw or frozen peas. If tender fresh peas in their pods are available, use them. There’s nothing quite like Matar Bhaat made with peas and their pods.

Do I have to add potatoes and paneer?

Not at all. If you’d like something more traditional, leave the potatoes and paneer out and add in more peas. I usually serve my Matar Bhaat with Kadhi as a one-bowl dinner which is why I like to bulk it out with some extras. Feel free to add any vegetables or protein you like.

What other vegetables can I add to Matar Bhaat?

Cauliflower, mushrooms, onions, peppers, courgettes and carrots are all great vegetable-based add ins.

How can I make a vegan version of this Gujarati-Style Matar Bhaat?

Simply replace the paneer for firm tofu (press it to drain excess water and pan-fry first). In place of tofu, you can also add cashews or peanuts. Swap the ghee for oil or your favourite plant-based butter.

Why do you add so few spices?

So here’s the key difference between Gujarati-Style Matar Bhaat and your average Pulao. Gujarati-Style Matar Bhaat is very delicate in flavour. It’s designed to carry the flavours of the sharp and tangy Kadhi you ladle on top.

Steaming hot, the two dishes eaten together are harmoniously sour, sweet, spicy and comforting. You’ll notice the absence of ginger, garlic, onions and chilli in this recipe — that’s because those ingredients would typically be in the dish you pair with the Gujarati-Style Matar Bhaat.

Let the flavour of the peas, and the fragrance of the Basmati rice shine.

My essentials for this recipe

Amazon Affiliate links. These are all products I have purchased of my own accord and ones that I use myself. None of the products mentioned have been gifted to me. By using an affiliate link, I receive a small commission at no expense to you. This commission helps to support this blog. Thanks in advance if you choose to make a purchase through these links!

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Gujarati-Style Matar Bhaat

My special version of Gujarati Matar Bhaat with super fluffy rice, fresh peas, potatoes and paneer. Serve it with Kadhi or as part of a larger thali-style meal. It's simple, comforting and utterly delicious. If you're looking for something a little more traditional, skip the paneer.

Course Side Dish

Cuisine Indian

Keyword gujarati, peas, pulao, rice

Prep Time 45 minutes minutes

Cook Time 10 minutes minutes

Total Time 55 minutes minutes

Servings 6

Author Sanjana

Ingredients

• 225 g long-grain basmati rice
• 250 g young peas in their pods (or peas without the pods)
• 225 g paneer diced (2cm cubes)
• 125 g potatoes peeled and diced (2cm cubes)
• 50 g ghee
• 2 tsp cumin seeds
• 5 cm stick cassia bark (or cinnamon)
• 10 curry leaves
• 1 1/2 tsp salt
• 550 ml hot water

Instructions

• Place the rice in a bowl. Wash it in plenty of cold water by gently swishing it with your hand. Be careful not to break the grains. Tip the water away and repeat another 2-3 times. This will clean the rice and also remove any excess starch for fluffy, separate grains.
• After the last drain, fill the bowl of rice with water once more. Add enough so the water level is 5cm above the surface of the rice. Allow to soak for 30 minutes.
• While the rice is soaking, prepare the peas, potatoes and paneer.
• To prepare the peas, top and tail them, also removing the long, stringy membrane that runs down the length (on both sides). Pop the pods open and remove the peas inside. Snap the top and pull downwards to remove the tough membrane from inside the pods. Do this for both halves. The pods and peas are now ready to cook.
• Peel and dice the potatoes in 1-2cm cubes (according to your preference). Place in a bowl and cover with plenty of cold water. Make sure they're all fully submerged. This will prevent the potatoes oxidising and turning brown. You can keep the skins on if you like.
• If you're using shop-bought paneer, cut it into 1-2cm cubes (according to your preference) and place it in a bowl. Pour hot water directly over the paneer until it's fully submerged. This will soften the paneer up beautifully. Skip this step if you're using homemade paneer.
• After the paneer has soaked for 10 minutes, you can drain it well (along with the potatoes) and fry them in oil or ghee if you like. However, I prefer not to brown the paneer or potatoes in this recipe.
• Melt the ghee in a large non-stick pan that has a tight-fitting lid. Once melted, add the cumin seeds, cassia bark and curry leaves. Sauté over a medium-low heat for 2-3 minutes to infuse the ghee with the delicate aromas of the spices.
• Drain the soaked rice well and add it to the pan. Sauté over a medium-high heat for 3-4 minutes. Fold the rice using a large spatula to ensure the delicate grains do not break. Once the rice is coated in ghee and very lightly toasted, add the paneer, potatoes and peas.
• Very gently combine the rice, vegetables and paneer. Season with salt.
• Pour in 550ml boiling water and give everything a final mix. Bring to the boil.
• Cover the top of the pan with a piece of aluminium foil – it shouldn't be touching the rice. Place the pan lid on top of the foil and press it down to seal the pot completely.
• Leave the pan over a moderate heat and cook for 5 minutes exactly. Once 5 minutes has elapsed, switch the heat off and leave the pan as it is for 20 minutes. Don't uncover it, not even for a second.
• After 20 minutes, remove the lid and carefully remove the foil to allow the steam to escape. Place the heat back on high and cook for 3-4 minutes. This will crisp up the bottom beautifully.
• The final step is to give the rice a final toss and fluff up with a fork. You can check the potatoes are cooked through by piercing them with a fork. They should be tender.
• Serve immediately with Gujarati-style Kadhi or in place of jeera rice alongside your favourite curry or daal.

Video

Notes

• Pack leftovers away in an air-tight container. Store in the fridge for up to 48 hours. Reheat thoroughly before serving.

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If you like this, you’ll love my recipe for Ruffled Vegetable Biryani

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This beautiful preparation of basmati rice and freshly-toasted spices takes serious thought, time and effort.

From soaking the rice, to frying onions, and if you’re really committed, making your own glorious Biryani Masala, this is no 30-minute meal.

Biryani is a food that you make for special occasions and sharing. It’s decadent, opulent and more of an emotion than it is a meal.

What is Ruffled Vegetable Biryani?

It’s a little twist on the original dough-sealed biryani with stunning golden filo pastry ruffles as the crowning glory. With each scoop of aromatic biryani, your friends and family can help themselves to a buttery pastry ruffle.

These scrunched up bits of filo just melt in the mouth and they’re SO simple to make (even though it looks super fancy!).

My favourite thing is that the butter from the pastry seeps down into the steamy rice to create rosy saffron steam that contrast with spices like cardamom and cloves. Indeed, this veg biryani will knock your socks clean off.

How to make Biryani Masala at home

Sure, a packet Biryani Masala mix has a place in the kitchen cupboard. It’s great for those days when you’re short of time, let’s not be snobby about it. However, there’s truly no match for a batch of homemade Biryani Masala.

I toast whole spices until the oils release and become fragrant. It’s as satisfying to make as it is to eat. Plus, everything is fresh and you get to see exactly what goes in.

My all-in-one Homemade Biryani Masala

My Biryani Masala is an all-in-one recipe. I add dried chilli, garlic and ginger to the masala so you don’t need to add their fresh counterparts when you cook your biryani.

I find this to be a welcome time saver since there are already so many other ingredients required.

How much Homemade Biryani Masala does this recipe make?

My recipe makes approximately 75g biryani masala, which is enough to make biryani for six people three times, give or take. Of course, this depends on the amount of masala you add to your dish.

My calculations are based on adding 2 tablespoons of biryani masala to a biryani for 6 people (around 225g rice and 1.5kg of vegetables or protein).

Tips for making Homemade Biryani Masala

• A dry frying pan is perfect for getting the spices nicely toasty. You don’t need to use oil for dry masalas.
• Don’t toast the spices over a high heat. A low heat will help coax the oils from the whole spices perfectly. Patience pays off.
• Keep the spices moving the whole time they’re in the pan to ensure they don’t burn. They have a tendency to catch in hotspots.
• Let the spices cool completely before you grind them.
• Store the homemade Biryani Masala in an airtight jar or container for up to six months. It’s okay to leave it beyond this date but the spices may lose some of their potency.
• I recommend making masalas in small batches so you can use them at their best.

What kind of Vegetable Biryani is this?

Absolutely not traditional is the answer. While it has all the flavours of a wonderful biryani, its presentation and method of preparation is unique.

I never claim authenticity in recipes because I believe recipes are in a constant metamorphosis, informed by our environments and tastes.

Purists will insist that there cannot be a vegetarian biryani as this dish has almost always been prepared with meat.

My opinion is that if there can be plant-based “chicken” burgers, vegan “steak” and other no-meat meats, anything is possible.

Every food has roots, or an origin of sorts. To deny the existence of something based on a belief that it shouldn’t be, doesn’t make it cease to exist. Enough chat. Let’s make biryani.

Why add pastry on top?

India’s most traditional biryanis are cooked in “Dum”. This refers to a seal of dough around the rim of a cooking pot so the food inside cooks in steam.

A seal ensures steam builds up inside the pot, plumps up the rice grains and infuses them with the flavours of spiced veg, crispy onions (in the biryani layers) and saffron.

Once you crack it open, the ‘Dum’, translated as “warm breath” will escape and you’ll be ready to pile mounds of biryani on your plate.

This Ruffled Pastry Vegetable Biryani takes inspiration from the dum method but isn’t wholly traditional. I sprinkle the biryani is sprinkled with saffron milk which, along with the rice and veg releases steam upwards.

The crispy filo pastry sits on top and since it’s spread with butter, the entire biryani soaks up the buttery drips that fall from above. It really is the veggie biryani of dreams.

Ruffled Pastry Vegetable Biryani: Troubleshooting

My biryani-making essentials (contains affiliate links)

• A wet/dry grinder with a powerful motor is your best friend when it comes to grinding your own masalas. It’s an invaluable tool for this Biryani Masala. I have a Boss one which is years old but this Premier Xpress Mixer/Grinder is amazing.
• Indeed, if you’re looking for a one-stop quick fix that’s suitable for lots of things, try a coffee grinder like this Bosch Coffee Grinder. You’ll probably only want to use it for spices though. Nobody wants biryani-flavoured coffee… or do they?
• All the spices you need for this biryani can be found here.
• I use a springform cake tin like this for my Ruffled Vegetable Biryani but a casserole pot like this one or this one is ideal.
• Indeed, you can use your favourite brand of Basmati rice for this biryani. Some of my favourites include this Dehraduni Basmati Rice or the classic Daawat Extra-Long Grain Rice.

How to make Homemade Biryani Masala and Vegetable Biryani

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Ruffled Pastry Vegetable Biryani

Aromatic vegetable biryani hidden beneath a layer of crispy, buttery filo pastry ruffles. This show-stopping vegetarian dish is inspired by "dum" cooking where pastry is used to seal a pot so the dish cooks gently in steam.

Course Main Course

Cuisine Indian

Keyword rice, vegetables, vegetarian

Prep Time 1 hour hour 30 minutes minutes

Cook Time 1 hour hour

Total Time 2 hours hours 30 minutes minutes

Servings 6

Author Sanjana

Equipment

• 1 x 26cm (10-inch) diameter springform cake tin, 10cm (4-inch) deep or cake tin, casserole or pie dish of a similar capacity
• Frying pan or pot

Ingredients

For the rice:

• 225 g long-grain basmati rice
• 2 L hot water
• 1 tsp salt
• 2 green cardamom pods
• 5 cm cassia bark or cinnamon stick
• 3 cloves
• 1 tbsp dried rose petals (optional)

For the vegetables:

• 1 tbsp ghee or oil
• 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
• 80 g cashews
• 1 tbsp tomato purée
• 2 tbsp Biryani masala recipe below
• 150 g plain yoghurt
• 350 g potatoes cut into large chunks and fried until cooked and golden
• 200 g cauliflower florets fried until slightly golden
• 150 g carrots sliced into batons and steamed until 75% cooked
• 100 g peas I used frozen
• 100 g peppers sliced into large pieces
• 200 g paneer cubed and fried until golden
• 1 large onion sliced and fried until golden and crispy
• 150 ml water

You will also need:

• 150 ml hot milk
• 1 large pinch saffron
• 1 large onion sliced and fried until golden and crispy
• 1 tbsp fresh mint leaves
• 2 tbsp chopped coriander leaves

For the pastry top:

• 500 g filo pastry sheets
• 200 g butter melted

Instructions

To prepare the rice:

• Gently wash the rice in cold water, changing the water out 2-3 times. Soak the rice in plenty of cold water for one hour.
• Heat a large pot of water (around 2L) over a medium-high heat. Add salt, cassia bark or cinnamon, 2 cardamom pods, 3 cloves and 1 tbsp optional rose petals. Bring to a boil.
• Add the rice and bring to a boil again. Simmer over a medium heat until the rice is 80% cooked. It should break when you press a grain between your fingers, not smush. Drain in a colander and set aside.

To make the vegetable mixture:

• Heat the ghee or oil in a large frying pan or saucepan. Allow to melt, and then add some whole cumin seeds. Sizzle for 20 seconds or so, then add tomato purée, cashews and biryani masala. Cook for a further 30 seconds, and then add plain yoghurt. Stir constantly, for about 2 minutes until the paste cooks through. You'll know it's ready when the oil separates from the paste. Turn the heat down low.
• Add potatoes, carrots, cauliflower, peas, peppers, paneer and fried onions. Stir well. Pour in around 150ml water and bring to the boil. Cook for no longer than 2 minutes and then switch the heat off.

To layer the biryani:

• Grease a springform cake tin, cake tin or pie dish with plenty of oil. Spread another third of the rice mixture in the bottom of the tin. Top with half of the vegetable mixture, some fresh mint leaves, fresh coriander leaves and fried onions.
• Add another third of the rice and the remainder of the vegetable mixture. Flatten it gently – don't press it down too hard. Top with some fresh mint leaves, fresh coriander leaves and fried onions.
• Layer in the final third of rice. Pour over the saffron milk and sprinkle some fresh coriander leave on top.

For the filo pastry ruffles:

• Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F.
• Take the first sheet of filo pasty and generously brush it with the melted butter. Keep the rest of the pastry covered with a damp tea towel to prevent it from drying out. Scrunch the pastry up from one end to the other, like a rough concertina. Take one end and wrap it around into a spiral or rosette. You don’t have to be neat — the more rustic, the better.
• Place the scrunched pastry on top of rice, starting from the outside edge. Repeat for the remaining pastry until all of the rice is covered with ruffled pastry. This pastry top will help the rice and spices gently steam in the oven whilst the surface becomes golden and crispy.
• Bake uncovered for 45-50 minutes until golden and crispy.
• Serve hot with your favourite biryani accompaniments. Raita and mirchi ka salan are my favourites.

Video

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All-In-One Biryani Masala

Aromatic masala that's perfect for any biryani preparation. Set aside your packet of biryani masala and try this beautifully-fragrant biryani masala inspired by the flavours of north India. Just add two tablespoons of masala per 1.5kg of vegetables or protein. No need to add additional ginger, garlic, chilli or salt because this masala contains it all.

Course Condiment

Cuisine Indian

Keyword biryani, masala

Prep Time 10 minutes minutes

Cook Time 10 minutes minutes

Total Time 20 minutes minutes

Equipment

• High-powered wet/dry grinder or coffee grinder
• Frying pan or saucepan
• Container with a tight-fitting lid for storing the masala

Ingredients

• 20 cloves
• 20 black peppercorns
• 15 green cardamom
• 4 black cardamom
• 20 cm cassia bark or cinnamon sticks
• 3 dried bay leaves
• 2 blades mace
• 5 dried red chillies
• 2 tbsp dried rose petals
• 2 tbsp coriander seeds
• 3 tsp salt
• 2 tsp sugar
• 3 tsp dried garlic
• 2 tsp dried ginger
• 2 tsp cumin seeds
• 2 tsp ajwain
• 2 tsp ground turmeric

Instructions

• Heat a dry frying pan or saucepan over a low heat.
• Add all the whole spices and toss to combine. Cook over a low heat for about a minute-90 seconds.
• Add the powdered spices, salt and sugar. Toss again and cook, stirring all the time to ensure the masala doesn't burn. This shouldn't take longer than 2 minutes. Allow to cool.
• Pile the spices into a spice grinder or the bowl of a mixer/grinder (recommendations for these are included in the blog post above). Blend until the mixture becomes a fine powder. You might need to stop and stir everything once or twice to ensure all the spices are getting some blade time.
• Pile the mixture into an airtight container or jar. This biryani masala will keep well for a year but is best used within 6 months.

Video

Notes

Makes approximately 75g biryani masala. This is enough to make biryani for six people three times, depending on how much masala you like in your biryani.

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The batter for these dosas flows like a swooshing river of pouring cream. Splash it in a hot pan, rotating until it becomes as thin as a crepe — and then watch the surface transform into a corded lace-like dosa.

Serve Neer Dosa with your favourite saagu, sambhar or simply enjoy with chutney. My favourite dish to serve with these is a creamy coconut milk-based Vegetable Kurma.

What are Neer Dosa?

Recipes for Neer Dosa vary from cook to cook, but the core ingredients are soaked rice, water and salt. Fresh coconut is abundant in South India and is commonly added for flavour.

I add coconut flavour to this dosa in the form of coconut milk. Vegetable Kurma is a curry I like to serve alongside Neer Dosa, so a splash of coconut milk from the same tin does the job perfectly for me.

Neer Dosa are a favourite in Tulu vegetarian cuisine is a treasured part of Mangalorean cuisine. It’s also known as Udupi cuisine which is rooted in Satvik traditions.

Is it easy to make Neer Dosa?

Being a non-fermented variety of dosa, it is relatively quick to prepare in comparison to other types of dosa.

What type of rice is best for making Neer Dosa?

Again, every cook has their own preference of what rice to use. I am UK based, so have experimented with the most commonly available types of rice here. Typically, a medium-short grain rice like Sona Masuri is popular for making Neer Dosa. It is grown largely in the Indian states of Andhra Pradesh and Karnataka and is known for its great fragrance and starchy qualities. However, it’s not a variety I can get my hands on easily where I live. Cue the Neer Dosa rice experiments.

What if I don’t have special rice?

After nine separate experiments using various varieties of rice, I found that both Idli rice and Thai Jasmine rice did a wonderful job in place of Sona Masuri. Having said this, I had good results using a standard American-style short-grain rice, too. Even 100% Basmati rice (250g) produced a good result for me (when I reduced the water content in my recipe by 50ml).

What equipment do I need for making this recipe?

• High-powered blender
• Frying pan (I used a non-stick one, about 30cm dia.)

Neer Dosa: Troubleshooting

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Neer Dosa

Soft and lacy Neer Dosa are delicate in both texture and flavour. A hint of coconut gives these beautiful rice dosas added aroma and suppleness. Serve with your favourite saagu, sambhar or simply enjoy with chutney. This dosa is a favourite in Udupi Mangalorean cuisine. Being a non-fermented variety of dosa, it is relatively quick to prepare in comparison to other types of dosa.

Course Breakfast, Side Dish

Cuisine Indian

Keyword breakfast, dosa, healthy, pancakes, rice

Prep Time 2 hours hours 20 minutes minutes

Cook Time 20 minutes minutes

Total Time 2 hours hours 40 minutes minutes

Servings 8 dosa

Author Sanjana

Equipment

• High-powered blender or wet grinder
• Frying pan

Ingredients

• 125 g Basmati rice
• 125 g short-grain rice of your choice I used idli rice but any short-grain rice works well. Thai Jasmine rice is particularly flavourful
• 50 ml coconut milk
• 450 ml water
• 1 tsp salt
• 1 tbsp cooking oil I used sunflower

Instructions

To make the batter:

• Combine the two types of rice in a large bowl. Wash it in plenty of fresh water to remove any surface dirt. I changed the water 2-3 times. Drain well.
• Cover the rice with plenty of fresh water, so there's about an inch of water above the surface of the rice. Allow to soak at room temperature for 2-3 hours.
• Drain the water from the rice.
• Place the rice in a high-powered blender (I used a NutriBullet). Add the coconut milk and 150ml water. Grind the rice to a very fine paste. You may need to start and stop a few times to give your blender a break (so the motor doesn't burn out). The mixture should be the texture of softly-whipped cream, with very few grains visible if you rub it between your fingers.
• Pour the mixture into a large bowl and add the remaining 300ml water and salt. Stir well. The batter should now be of a flowing consistency – it should look a bit like pouring cream.

To cook the Neer Dosa:

• Heat a large, non-stick frying pan over a high heat. Rub the inside of the pan with a kitchen paper dabbed in oil.
• Give the batter a quick stir to ensure the rice and water hasn't separated. When the pan is smoking hot, carefully splash the dosa batter into the frying pan, tilting the pan as you go along for even spreading. Watch the video below to see how I do this. The dosa should be thin and will immediately begin to look lacy.
• Cover with a lid and cook for 30-40 seconds. The dosa shouldn't brown. Don't flip the dosa – it should only cook on one side.
• Remove the lid and fold the dosa in half and then in half again so you have a neat little triangle-like shape. Remove the dosa from the pan and place on a plate.
• Repeat this process for the remaining dosa batter.

Video

Notes

• Serve the Neer Dosa immediately.
• The number of dosas you make will depend on the size of your pan. I used a 30cm (12″) diameter pan and was able to make 8 large Neer Dosa.
• You can also use a cast iron tawa if you are comfortable doing so. However, I find a non-stick pan is perfect for this recipe.

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In our home, this is known as Bodhi’s Kheer because it’s my boy’s favourite pudding. To adapt it for his little tum, I’ve cut out traditional refined sugar from the recipe and replaced it with low GI agave nectar. The addition of golden sultanas also lend a juicy sweetness to the overall dish. He loves it.

Oat milk and dairy milk can be used interchangeably in the recipe, and this is something I do often. Having said this, I find the oat milk version to be much lighter and so recommend seeking it out for a delicious spiced rice pudding.

What kind of rice should I use for this Creamy Vegan Rice Kheer?

Traditionally, Kheer is made with basmati rice and not short-grain pudding rice. It can be made directly from washed and soaked aged basmati or with leftover cooked rice (less creamy than the former). Basmati rice makes a huge difference to the flavour of the Kheer and is what differentiates it from traditional western rice pudding recipes.

So which rice should I use?

Controversial disclosure: My recipe for Creamy Vegan Rice Kheer uses a 70/30 combination of aged basmati and short-grain pudding rice. Not only does this add the fragrance of traditional Kheer, it also ensures a level of creaminess that makes me weak at the knees. Having said this, feel free to mix things up by using 100% basmati or 100% short-grain rice if you like. There are no hard and fast rules, only personal preferences. After all, the rice is just a carrier for copious amounts of milk and/or cream in any rice pudding recipe.

Can I used other plant milks to make Creamy Vegan Rice Kheer?

Yes! While I find oat milk to be the closest match to dairy milk, you may prefer to use almond milk, rice milk, pea milk, hazelnut milk or even cashew milk in this recipe. You can also use soy milk but be aware that it will alter the flavour slightly. Ultimately, you can use any combination of plant milk to make this dish. Just be sure it’s an unsweetened one! Note that most oat milks are not certified as gluten free so if you are avoiding gluten, try a nut milk. Soy milk or rice milk marked nut free are great if you are avoiding nuts.

How long do I need to cook this kheer?

45 minutes, low and slow with a lid on to ensure each grain of rice swells to twice or even thrice its size. A lid ensures a skin does not form on top. The long cooking time also means the natural starch from the rice has a chance to thicken the kheer while the spices develop their aromas and colours. The finished kheer will be golden from the saffron and speckled with black and cardamom vanilla seeds.

Can I make this recipe ahead of time?

Yes. In fact, this kheer tastes even better the next day. The spices and aromas have a chance to develop as the kheer chills. This infused the milk and cream with even more flavour. After a day, you will also notice the fragrance of the rice, vanilla and rosewater deepens.

Ingredients you’ll need to make Creamy Vegan Rice Kheer

• Aged basmati rice
• Short-grain pudding rice
• Oat milk
• Plant-based cream (such as oat cream)
• Golden sultanas
• Agave nectar
• Green cardamom pods
• Saffron
• Vanilla bean paste (or vanilla extract), optional for enhanced flavour
• Rosewater
• Slivered almonds
• Dried rose petals

How to make Creamy Vegan Rice Kheer

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Creamy Vegan Rice Kheer

This recipe for Creamy Vegan Rice Kheer is hands down my favourite way to make the classic Indian rice pudding. The tender grains of rice are fragrant and have all the flavours of sweet Rasmalai milk. In my opinion, those two things combined make for a comforting bowl of kheer.

Course Dessert

Cuisine Indian

Keyword cardamom, dessert, indian sweets, oat milk, rice pudding, saffron, vegan

Prep Time 10 minutes minutes

Cook Time 45 minutes minutes

Total Time 55 minutes minutes

Servings 6

Author Sanjana

Equipment

• Large, heavy-based saucepan with lid
• Wooden spoon

Ingredients

• 30 g aged basmati rice
• 80 g short-grain pudding rice
• 1 L oat milk
• 50 ml plant-based cream
• 20 g golden sultanas
• 3 tbsp agave nectar
• 5 green cardamom pods seeds removed and crushed
• Large pinch of saffron
• 1 tsp vanilla bean paste or vanilla extract
• 1 tsp rosewater
• 1 tbsp slivered almonds and dried rose petals to garnish

Instructions

• Mix the rice together in a bowl and rinse briefly. Don’t rinse away too much starch as this is what will make the Kheer creamy.
• Put the rice into a large, heavy-based saucepan. A non-stick pan is ideal as the milk will will be less likely to catch and burn at the base of the pan. Pour in the oat milk, cream, sultanas, agave, cardamom, saffron, rosewater and vanilla. Stir and bring to the boil. Cover with a lid.
• Stirring frequently, simmer the Kheer over a low heat. Once it begins to thicken, you’ll need to stir it more often, at least every 5 minutes. Once reduced to the consistency of thin porridge, beat the Kheer with a wooden spoon until the grains are soft and tender. This will tease the starch out of the rice and thicken the kheer beautifully.
• Switch off the heat and serve hot or alternatively cool to room temperature and refrigerate for 2-3 hours for serving the kheer cold. Garnish with almonds and rose petals.

Notes

• Note: This rice kheer is not suitable for freezing.
• Store leftovers in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 3 days. Ensure the kheer is completely cool before placing in the fridge.

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I’m making Khichdi, Gujarati style, like how they eat it on the farm in my ancestral home of Porbandar. It’s served with Gujarati Lasan ni Chutney, a blow-your-socks-off garlic and chilli preserve, and a cold glass of Chaas (salted buttermilk with roasted cumin). This is the comfort food every Gujarati has precious memories of growing up. The porridge-like consistency of a ghee-beaten rice and lentil mishmash was usually the first solid food we ever ate as toothless babies and our fondness for it stayed with us right through to adulthood. It became a familiar and nostalgic comfort blanket for the belly.

Loaded with hearty goodness and family tradition, Khichdi was and (still is) regarded as being every doting Gujarati mother’s nourishment of choice for her child.

My recipe uses salt but feel free to omit it or reduce the amount for weaning. Just a few weeks ago, I prepared a salt-free version for my 6-month old and he gobbled it up with gusto. It was his first real taste of food, as it was mine 29 years ago.

Unlike other regional variations of the dish, Gujarati Khichdi is subtle and gently spiced but still creamy with ghee or butter. It’s not pilau or biryani and traditionally, Khichdi is not loved for its long, separate grains you strive to achieve with other rice dishes. Think risotto. It’s a stodgy, filling rice and lentil porridge with or without a blend of spices depending on the regional style and interpretation you choose.

I like to use dried, split mung beans with the husks on (mung daal chilla) but you can also use the skinned yellow variety of mung daal if you prefer. As far as spices go, turmeric, asafoetida and black pepper are all that’s needed.

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Village-Style Gujarati Khichdi

Unlike other regional variations of the dish, Gujarati Khichdi is subtle and gently spiced but still creamy with ghee or butter. It’s not pilau or biryani and traditionally, Khichdi is not loved for its long, separate grains you strive to achieve with other rice dishes. Think risotto. It’s a stodgy, filling rice and lentil porridge with or without a blend of spices depending on the regional style and interpretation you choose.

Course Main Course, Side Dish

Cuisine Indian

Keyword gujarati, lentils, rice, turmeric

Prep Time 10 minutes minutes

Cook Time 15 minutes minutes

Total Time 25 minutes minutes

Servings 6

Ingredients

• 125 g basmati rice
• 125 g dried split mung beans (the kind with the husks left on)
• 600 ml hot water
• 1/4 tsp turmeric
• 1/8 tsp asafoetida
• 1 tsp salt
• 100 g butter or ghee
• 1 tsp freshly-ground black peppercorns

Instructions

• Combine the rice and dried split mung beans. Wash them in cold water several times and then place them in a pan that has a tight-fitting lid.
• Add the water, turmeric, asafoetida and salt. Stir and bring to the boil. Place the lid on the pan and reduce the burner to low. Cook for 25 minutes or until all the water has been absorbed and the khichdi is tender.
• Next, add in the butter and black pepper and beat the khichdi with a wooden spoon for a minute until creamy and porridge-like in consistency.
• Serve with more butter or ghee and Gujarati Lasan ni Chutney (optional but delicious).
• You can also cook the khichdi in a pressure cooker. Follow the same method and cook for 10 minutes. Allow to cool slightly before opening the cooker and beating in the butter and black pepper.

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Yep, I’ve always been this easy to please. My first memories of cooking with cauliflower began at the supermarket where mum trained me in how to pick the freshest veggies for our homemade vegetarian feasts – all reliant on the senses. Think Karate Kid but with more legumes and fewer spinning leg kicks. “Look for the slimmest aubergines – they contain the fewest seeds”, “Always feel for the firmest okra – they’re the freshest”, “Shake the coconut and listen to hear if there’s water inside – the flesh will be more tender”. 20 years on and I remember these and hundreds more tips every time I pick fresh fruit and veg. I’m talking Russell Crowe in A Beautiful Mind but with zero algebra and loads of brassicas.

My lesson on picking the perfect cauliflower? The florets should be firm, pure white and the leaves enveloped around the cauliflower head. Bonus points for a lack of baby caterpillars.
When I was growing up in Yorkshire, I had incredible fresh ingredients from the local farm shop on my doorstep (not literally. – we lived above a newsagents, not in a field). I didn’t know many other 13 year olds who preferred doing the food shop with mum over heading into town with friends, but that’s okay. Back then I truly believed I was a bit odd. So, as a 27 year old, I wish to give my teenage self some advice…

• Don’t worry about being different to your friends, you’re you and that’s what makes you special.
•  Your obsession with cooking isn’t weird. It’ll help you later in life.
• Don’t be a jerk to your parents, they’re your number 1 fans and love you unconditionally.
• Stop obsessing over what you think makes people ‘pretty’. You’re fine the way you are. One day you’ll find a husband who loves the whole you.
• Your brother isn’t as evil as he seems.
• Friends come and go. Just hold on to the ones you really like 😉
• Mess with your hair as much as you want. Dye it purple and forget what other people say. Your genes are badass.
• Find beauty in everything. It’s there, you just need to look hard enough.
• Keep dancing in your bedroom every night.
• You are not the only person in the world who feels ‘this way’.
• Dedicate your time exploring the things you love. A career will follow if you show people how passionate you are.
• Talent is overrated – work hard and be patient.
• Gently let go of people who bring negativity into your life.
• Be respectful of other people’s time.
• Don’t focus too hard on big aspirations and goals. Pay attention to the smaller ones and bigger things will come.

Before I burst into a crappy rendition of Baz Luhrmann’s Sunscreen Song, I’d better get back to the recipe.

The cauliflower is first broken into small florets, scattered with a combination of turmeric, whole black peppercorns and cracked cardamom pods. After a liberal squeeze of lemon juice and a good rub, it’s roasted in a hot oven until it’s golden and tender. Once it comes out of the oven it’s succulent and smokey, with a wicked texture that’ll flabbergast all your meat-eating friends.

And the sauce? Let me tell you about the sauce. It’s rich, creamy and all kinds of comforting. A base of ground almonds blended with fresh ginger, bay leaves, cinnamon and chilli keep it fresh but with a gentle heat that tricks out the cauliflower and dances the Giddha on your taste buds.

A hailstorm of fresh, summer peas add a welcome sweetness and crunch. Bonus points if you strip the pods and throw those in too. I used to love sitting at the table on a Sunday afternoon chatting with mum, drinking chai and shelling fresh peas. She taught me how you should always remove the inner membrane of the pod if you want to use it in a dish. Once, when I was at university I forgot to do it and my Matar Bhaat left a lot to be desired. The cooked pods were like actual shards of glass. I won’t forget to do it again.

A video posted by SANJANA | K.O RASOI (@sanjanamodha) on Jul 17, 2016 at 4:03am PDT

To make the perfect jeera (cumin) pilau, I usually start with a good-quality Basmati rice, cumin seeds and ghee. As this is a vegan meal, sub it for coconut oil. Actually, even if you’re not vegan, I recommend you try this coconut version – it’s seriously good and will make your house smell sublime too.

The trick to perfect rice is patience. Wash it in cold water for a minute to remove excess starch (I use a fine-holed sieve). Next soak it in cold water to soften the grains – 20 minutes will do. Boil the kettle. Heat the oil or ghee in a large, non-stick pan that has a tight-fitting lid. Add the aromatics. Wait a sec and then add the rice. Make sure it’s well coated. Add double the volume of boiling water and some salt. Bring it to a boil and put the lid on. Turn the heat down very low and after 8 minutes, switch it off. Leave it with the lid on for 15-20 minutes. When you take the lid off you’ll have amazing jeera rice.

Garnish the Vegan ‘Butter’ Cauliflower with a final flourish of chopped coriander and a drizzle of coconut milk for that luscious restaurant-style finish.

Serve with rice and hot chapattis.

Vegan ‘Butter’ Cauliflower and Perfect Jeera Pilau

Ingredients

For the cauliflower:
800g cauliflower, broken into small florets
1 tsp turmeric
1 tsp salt
Juice and zest of a lemon
3 whole cardamom pods, lightly crushed
5 whole black peppercorns
1 tbsp coconut oil, melted

For the vegan makhani sauce:
50g coconut oil
1 tsp ground cinnamon
3 tbsp ground almonds
6 small green chillies
2 tbsp freshly-grated ginger
2 cloves garlic, crushed
2 dried bay leaves
1 tbsp ground coriander
1 tsp turmeric
400g good-quality passata (sieved tomatoes)
2-3 tsp salt
2 tsp sugar
100g coconut cream
Fresh coriander, chopped

You’ll also need: 300g fresh peas, shelled with the pod membranes removed (take a look at my instructions and Instagram video above if you don’t know what I’m talking about).

Method

1. Pre-heat the oven to 180°C.

2. Place the cauliflower in a large roasting tray. In a bowl, combine the coconut oil, turmeric, black peppercorns, crushed cardamom pods, salt, lemon juice and zest. Drizzle the mixture over the cauliflower and use your clean hands to give it a good rub.

3. Roast the cauliflower for 25 minutes.

4. In the meantime, make the sauce. Heat the coconut oil in a large, heavy based non-stick pan. Add the cinnamon, green chillies, garlic, ginger, ground almonds and bay leaves. Sauté for a minute.

5. Next, add the passata, turmeric, ground coriander, salt and sugar. Bring to the boil. Put the lid on and allow to simmer on a low heat for 15 minutes.

6. Take the cauliflower out of the oven.

7. Remove the lid from the sauce pan and stir. Remove the peppercorns and cardamom pods from the cauliflower and add it to the simmered sauce.

8. Place the sauce in a blender along with the coconut cream and blitz for a minute or two until it’s silky smooth.

9. Return the sauce to the pan and add in the peas and cauliflower. Stir and place the lid back on. Simmer on a low heat for 10 minutes. Check the seasoning, adding more salt if needed. Ladle into a big serving bowl. Garnish with chopped coriander and a drizzle of coconut milk.

Serve with jeera pilau and chapattis.

Perfect Jeera Pilau

Ingredients

185g good-quality Basmati rice (I use Golden Sela)
470g boiling water
1 tsp salt
2 tbsp coconut oil
1 tbsp cumin seeds
8-10 fresh curry leaves
2-3 whole cloves

Method

1. Wash the rice with cold water in a fine-holed sieve for a minute.

2. Soak the rice in cold water for 20-30 minutes.

3. Heat the oil in a large, non-stick pan with a tight-fitting lid. Add the cumin seeds, cloves and curry leaves. Sauté for a moment. They will snap and crackle.

4. Drain the rice and add it to the pan. Stir gently to coat all the grains.

5. Add the boiling water and bring the pan to the boil. Put the lid on and turn the heat right down. Simmer for 8 minutes.

6. After 8 minutes, switch the heat off and leave the rice to stand, undisturbed for 20 minutes.

7. Remove the lid and marvel at your perfect rice. All that’s left to do is fluff up the grains with a fork, serve and demolish.

Love Sanjana

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This pilaf is one of those recipes.

 It takes 90 minutes to prepare, 35 minutes to bake and probably just 10 minutes to devour. Like any Indian rice dish, it requires a dash of spice and a whole load of TLC. The end result is a buttery platter of golden rice and crisp-tender vegetables that pair perfectly with any curry or simply with a bowl of lime and coriander yoghurt.

The idea is to partially cook each component of the dish before arranging it in a buttered roasting tin, covering with damp greaseproof paper (cartouche) and foil, and then baking until the rice is steamed to fluffy perfection. It’s a foolproof way to ensure your rice is spot on every time. The best bits the golden brown edges but don’t tell anyone I told you that.

I love to ribbon vegetables; whether they’re for a salad, pasta or rice, they look so beautiful and are quick to cook. The ones I find work best are all used in this recipe – carrots, courgettes and asparagus. However, you can use any veggies you like. I also added baby pearl potatoes, paneer (of course, don’t you know me at all?), petit pois, cashews and echalions (banana shallots). Be experimental and add whatever you fancy.

I’ve intentionally kept the spicing mellow in this pilaf. There’s nothing worse than killing the flavour of fresh vegetables and golden rice with OTT spicing. It happens all the time in restaurants and makes me sad. When cooking rice, you’ve got to remember that it will take on every flavour you add and this is particularly important in things like baked rice and biryanis because of the slow cooking. It has lots of time to infuse with the spices so it’s very easy to go overboard. Don’t fall into this trap.

I’ve added black cumin and black cardamom for a smoky flavour, saffron and green cardamom. They are perfectly balanced against all the sweet, buttery vegetables.

This recipe makes enough for eight hungry people because it was simply made for sharing. The leftovers are delicious the next day and even the day after that.

Baked Buttered Vegetable Pilaf
Serves 8

Ingredients

550g golden Sela rice
500g baby pearl potatoes, parboiled
400g carrots, peeled and ribboned
150g asparagus, ribboned
450g courgette, ribboned
225g paneer, cut into rectangles and grilled
5 banana shallots, peeled and sliced in half – root trimmed but left on
100g cashew nuts
150g petits pois

Hot water to boil the rice
Salt, to taste

100g butter
2 tbsp oil
4 green cardamom pods, lightly crushed
1 black cardamom pod, whole
2 inch cinnamon stick
2 whole cloves
1 tsp black cumin
1 tbsp grated ginger
2 whole green chillies
150ml water
Large pinch saffron

Fresh coriander, to garnish

Method

1. Wash the rice and soak the rice in cold water for an hour.

2. In a large pan, melt the butter and add the oil. Add in the cardamom pods, black cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, black cumin, ginger, cashews and chillies. Saute for a few moments before adding the potatoes. Allow the sizzle on a low heat for 5 minutes.

3. Add the shallots and paneer and keep on a low heat, trying not to break the shallots. Once everything s lightly golden, season with salt, add the saffron and 150ml water, then switch off the heat and set aside.

4. Drain the soaking liquid from the rice. Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and add the rice. Boil it until it’s 50% cooked, just as you would boil pasta. Drain and set aside.

5. Grease a large roasting tray with butter and add the drained rice. Pile on the potato mixture, plus all of the ribboned vegetables and give it a very gentle mix. Try not to break up the vegetables.

6. Take a piece of greaseproof paper and scrunch it up under the tap, squeezing out any excess water. Place this directly on top of the rice and vegetables. Cover the tray with foil, leaving room for it to rise up as the rice steams.

7. Bake in a pre-heated oven t 180C for 35 minutes.

8. Remove from the oven and allow to sit, covered for 10 minutes. Remove the foil and paper and fluff up the rice with a fork. Arrange on a platter or into bowls. Garnish with fresh coriander.

Serve with your favourite curries or like I have it… with plain Greek yoghurt and nothing more.

Love Sanjana

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I’ve been rushing around like a mad woman on too many jalebis this month. Developing recipes (which I’ll show you later), catching up with friends I haven’t seen since our wedding and generally thinking about what to blog about next.

Sifting through my mum’s handwritten recipes, clippings and annotations on pudding recipes, I once again became a tubby eight year old. Making Indian sweets like white chocolate penda, butterfly burfi (milk fudge with almond ‘butterfly wings’ like the buns we used to make at school) with mum was what made me so passionate about playing with food. She fuelled my curiosity for learning about how flavours really work and our shared enthusiasm for putting an Indian spin on everything. It is something I try to practice every single day.

We’d always make enough to feed the five thousand so quite often, the puddings would be taken to our temple for prashad – food which has been offered to the gods. Once it has been ‘blessed’ the food can be shared.

Unashamedly, this was my favourite bit.

Sampling the prashad brought to the temple by all the different families was something new and adventurous for me. One family would always bring kheer – an Indian rice pudding. It was packed with saffron, cardamom and nuts. Plus, in my eight year-old mind it had to be good… It’d been blessed by GOD! I. Was. Hooked.

The next time there was an event at the temple, I was there faster than a buttered bullet.

Anyone who knows me will be aware of my infatuation with Raymond Blanc. Every time I see him create a French classic on my TV screen, I melt. A simple recipe prepared with hunger and respect for ingredients is something that inspires me to my very bones. So when I saw him make his mother’s recipe for Riz au Lait, I had to try it. He suggested serving it warm, or cold with a brûlée top. Bloody brilliant.

Of course, I had to put my own spin on it so taking my inspiration from childhood experiments and that ‘holy rice pudding at the temple’, I created this Saffron Rice Pudding with Banana Brûlée.

Saffron Rice Pudding with Banana Brûlée
Adapted from Raymond Blanc’s Riz au Lait
Serves 6-8

Ingredients
1.2L semi-skimmed milk
500ml double cream
½ tsp saffron
150g rice
100g caster sugar
4 bananas
Extra caster sugar for caramelising the pudding tops

Method

1. Pour the milk and cream in a large pan, then add the sugar, rice and saffron. Bring to the boil and turn the heat down to low. Simmer for 40 minutes. The rice should be pretty much cooked all the way through. Don’t worry that there’s lots of extra liquid – it will all come together.

2. Pre-heat the oven to 190C

3. Next, take individual ramekins placed on a tray or one large ovenproof dish and ladle in the rice pudding. Bake in the hot oven for 20 minutes or until nicely browned on top. If it gets too brown, cover with some foil. Remove from the oven.

4. Slice the bananas and top the rice pudding. Sprinkle over a liberal amount of sugar and place under a hot grill until dark and the colour of burnt caramel. If you have a blowtorch you can use that. I do have one but it’s new and if I’m honest, I’m a bit scared of it.

Allow to cool for at least 15 minutes before serving because burnt tongues are nobody’s favourite.

Love Sanjana

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The prospect of an Indian breakfast is sometimes just the kick I need to pull myself from my cosy bed. This usually only ever takes place on weekends or during time-off from the day job, so it’s always a welcome treat.

Along with a spicy breakfast, there’s nothing more satisfying than using up leftovers. This recipe for Dudhi Na Muthyia hits both of those spots. They’re made using grated bottlegourd (doodhi/lauki), cold leftover rice, chickpea flour and a medley of subtle spices. The dumplings are then formed into log-shapes and gently steamed to lock in plenty of flavour and moisture. Once cooled, the cooked muthiya are quickly sautéed with sesame seeds and curry leaves to add that final dimension of flavour and a gorgeously crisp, golden texture.

So many people prefer them straight from the steamer without sautéing them first – perhaps a consequence of impatience more than anything else. I have been known to finish them off before I actually finish off the recipe, not that I should actually be admitting to this.

I add coarse semolina to these steamed dumplings as it gives them a softer texture in the middle and once they’re sautéed, a better crisp on the outside.

Don’t have bottlegourd? Muthiya taste just as good when they’re made with courgettes, cabbage, carrots or even fenugreek. Use your imagination and don’t be afraid to play with your food.

My favourite way of enjoying muthiya is with a steaming cuppa sweet masala chai and absolutely nothing else.

Dudhi Na Muthiya
Serves 4-6

 For the dumplings:

1 bottlegourd, grated (about 400g)
260g chickpea flour
1 ½ tbsp coarse semolina
400g cold cooked rice or khichdi
140g plain flour
4 green chillies, minced (or to taste)
2 ½ tsp salt (or to taste)
1 tsp turmeric
90ml oil, plus more for greasing
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 ½ tsp sugar
Juice of ½ lemon
½ tsp baking powder
¼ tsp bicarbonate of soda

To temper:

2 tbsp oil
1 tsp mustard seeds
1 tbsp sesame seeds
6-8 curry leaves
¼ tsp asafoetida
1 tbsp chopped coriander to garnish

Method

1. In a large, deep pan (one that comes with a steaming basket), boil -2L water. Grease the basket with 1 tbsp oil and pop it into the pan so it suspends above the water but doesn’t touch it.

2. Take a large mixing bowl and combine all of the ingredients for the dumplings. Do not add water as the bottlegourd will release plenty as you mix. Keep going, gently squeezing the mixture until you get a batter.

3. One by one, roll into seven logs and place them into the steaming basket. You may need to do them in two batches if your steamer is small. Place a lid on and simmer on a medium heat for 20-25 minutes or until a skewer poked into the middle of one comes out clean. Remove the basket from the steamer and allow to cool completely.

4. Remove the logs from the steaming basket and cut each log into 2cm pieces. Set aside.

5. To temper the spices and sauté the muthia: in a large non-stick pan, heat the oil and add the mustard seeds. Wait for them to pop, then add the sesame seeds, curry leaves and asafoetida. Add the dumplings and sauté on a high heat for 5 minutes or so, turning every so often – make sure you don’t break them when turning. When golden, remove from the heat and garnish with chopped coriander. Serve hot. Note: Dudhi Na Muthiya can be kept in the fridge for up to three days, but I doubt these will last that long.

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There is a word in Indian cooking that used to send a chill down my spine every time it was uttered – biryani.

I was never suspicious of the biryani because it’s difficult to cook, but because it’s typically served as a main course. As a little girl, rice had always been a side dish for me – something to go with the daal or to soak up a sauce.

It didn’t matter if the rice was bland because there were other dishes on the table to perk it up. But when I discovered the world of biryani, there was a shift in balance – the rice had become the star of the show and everything it was cooked with had to taste good. If it didn’t, the whole dinner went to pot.

But now I’m a fully-fledged member of the biryani lovers club, I’m here to offer a lesson in how easy preparing it can really be, provided you know the basics.

Spice notes

Spice mixtures for biryanis tend to vary depending on the region in which they’re being prepared and the main ingredients going in. Some essentials include but are not limited to: Cinnamon, cloves, cumin, coriander seeds, black and green cardamom, bay leaves, mace and saffron.

Used sparingly, these spices infuse the rice and vegetables with the most wonderful aromas imaginable. Earthy, rich, spicy and perfumed, a true biryani should release all of these notes as soon as the lid has been lifted and the rush of steam escapes from within.

What I love about the finished dish are the flavours and smells of Southern Asia, the Middle East and Northern Africa all coming together in one harmonious orchestra of edible goodness – it’s a tour of the East in a single bite.

The rice should always be basmati – an aromatic long-grain variety used to prepare almost every Indian rice dish. It’s even used in spiced rice puddings, unlike its western counterpart which favours short grain.

At home, cooking biryani has become somewhat of a ritualistic affair reserved only for special occasions and buttering up certain people. Every component needs to be prepared in advance: The vegetables and rice should be semi-cooked, the spicy sauce made and the nuts toasted.

Sound like a chore? Never forget that if you take your time and give your biryani some love, it will love you back tenfold.

Biri-what-ni?

Thousands of years ago, the Mughals introduced the Indian subcontinent to the science of cooking rice and vegetables (or meat) together. A beautiful Iranian dish quickly became something every Indian dadima (grandmother) excelled at, and every dadaji (grandfather) dreamt of being hand fed by his doting wife each evening.

Today, I’m stepping into dadima’s slippers and in true grandma style, passing my recipe on to you.

Now let’s talk about the one of the biryani’s most noteworthy ingredients, saffron.

Saffron school

-Use saffron sparingly. By weight, it’s the most expensive spice in the world and nobody can argue over prices when each crocus contains three single strands of pure saffron, handpicked by ever-patient and light-fingered saffron collectors.

-Beware of copycats. For years, saffron fakes have been abundant and it isn’t easy to tell whether you’ve been conned out of your pounds when they look so convincing.

-Always buy from a reputable spice dealer or stockist.

-To get the most out of your saffron, place it in a bowl and microwave it on high for 10-15 seconds to lightly toast it and dry it out (be VERY careful and keep a watchful eye on it). Gently rub it through your fingers when you add it to your dish and it will release heaps of extra flavour and colour. Magic.

3 tips for the perfect biryani

– Biryanis are traditionally cooked in clay pots – not only are these hard to come by, they’re also high maintenance. Without having to invest in one of these, I find that you can get similar results by cooking your biryani in a Dutch oven.

– Every biryani should be slow-cooked with a lid on. An old school trick to stop any steam escaping is to seal the lid with a ring of wheat flour dough. This type of cooking is known as dum cooking. Dum simply means ‘warm breath’ to connote the steam inside the pot. Once cooked, the dough seal is broken and the beautiful aromas are released – of course, the bread is eaten along with the biryani.

– Many people cook their biryanis on the stove, but I prefer to bake mine for the simple reason that the bottom of the dish tends not to burn as quickly as it would if it was placed on direct heat. If you prefer to use the stove top method, place your pan inside another, slightly larger pan filled halfway up with water (essentially a bain marie) to promote even cooking.

Controversially, I sauté my potatoes, onions and paneer separately, in a combination of ghee (clarified butter) and sunflower oil for added flavour before adding them to the biryani. I hear you heckling me for my flippant use of ghee but when you’re pouring yogurt and double cream into your sauce, you may as well go the whole hog and make an amazing biryani for a special occasion. I’ve never been one to skimp on the good stuff.

Classic Vegetable Biryani
(Serves 6)

Ingredients (all of these are available in supermarkets)

For the sauce:
400g passata
1 tbsp ground coriander seeds
5 green cardamom pods, seeds removed and ground
2 black cardamom pods, ground (optional)
1 tsp ground cumin seeds
1 ½ tbsp sugar
½-1 tsp red chilli powder
Pinch of ground mace (optional)
4 inch stick cinnamon, broken in half
1 bay leaf
3 cloves
1 tbsp ghee (clarified butter)
1 clove garlic, minced
2 tsp ginger, minced
2 tbsp concentrated tomato puree
1 ¼ tsp salt
100ml double cream
3 tbsp plain yoghurt

For the rest of the biryani:

255g basmati rice
Pinch saffron
1 medium onion, sliced finely
½ aubergine, sliced into half moons
115g baby potatoes, quartered
100g paneer, cubed into 2cm pieces
5 French beans, trimmed and sliced
100g frozen peas
60g cauliflower florets, broken
10 cashews, toasted in a dry pan
2 tbsp flaked almonds, toasted in a dry pan
1 ½ tbsp desiccated coconut, toasted in a dry pan
1 tbsp golden sultanas
1 tbsp dried apricots, chopped into small pieces
2 tsp salt

Ghee and sunflower oil to fry

Method

1. Wash the rice in cold, running water to remove as much starch as possible. Allow to soak in a pan whilst you make the sauce.

2. Whisk together the passata, ground coriander, cardamom, cumin, chilli powder, mace, sugar, and salt. Heat the ghee in a large saucepan and add the cloves, cinnamon, bay leaf tomato puree, ginger and garlic. Sauté for a few moments, and then add the passata mixture. Stir and cover with a lid. Allow to simmer on a very low heat for 40-45 minutes, stirring often.

3. Heat the ghee and sunflower oil to shallow fry the vegetables one by one. Start with the onions, remove from the pan when golden, then in the same oil, shallow fry the aubergines (until 40% cooked), then the potatoes (until 80% cooked), and then paneer until golden all over. Set aside.

4. Boil the rice in plenty of hot water and 2 tsp salt until 60% cooked. Drain and set aside. Note: You could boil the rice in two batches, adding a little bit of food colour to one. This is a little frivolous and totally optional.

5. Place the saffron in a bowl and microwave in 5 second bursts, checking after each one until the saffron becomes lightly toasted and brittle. Add three tablespoons of hot water to the saffron and allow to steep.

6. Combine the dried fruits and nuts. Preheat the oven to 190°C.

7. Remove the sauce from the heat and quickly whisk in the cream and yoghurt. Add in all of the cauliflower, potatoes, peas, French beans and paneer. Mix thoroughly. You’re now ready to layer up your biryani.

8. Rub some ghee into your dish/dishes (I used mini Dutch ovens)

9. Layer in some onions, aubergines, rice, saffron water, fruits and nuts, vegetables in sauce, repeating until all ingredients are used up.

10. Make a dough using 200g flour, 3 tbsp oil and hot water to bind. Roll into a rope and place onto the edge of your dish. Lightly press down the lid. Alternatively, you can place a piece of foil over the rice and cover with a lid.

‘Dum’ cooking

11. Bake the biryani for 30-35 minutes. The aim of the game is for the rice and vegetables finish cooking at the same time.

12. Break the bread seal and remove the lid when you’re ready to serve. For those final touches, garnish with plain yogurt and fresh coriander.

This biryani is best served with cucumber raita and Peshwari Naan.

Cooking biryani is an art which some chefs spend years trying to fine tune. When they get it right, people flock to their restaurants, hotels and homes, travelling from hundreds and thousands of miles away, just to sample a taste. And that’s when you know your biryani is really good.

Do you have a signature biryani recipe? Now I’ve shared mine, I’d love to read your best tips and tricks.

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